Hectic. A good description of what the general vibe in camp has been like for the last 3 days while 20 crazy Dutchmen have been 'letting their hair down' after a rough overland trip through the Mozambiquan side of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park. These 40 year old buddies rocked up on Thursday in 5 landys covered from head to toe in a thick coating of the finest dust Mozambique has to offer. A week or so without a shower - and dust sticks to a sweaty human being like a dead fly does to syrup on toast. So what were once pale caucasian males arrived with a darker than normal hue. Their stay at The Outpost was kind of like a luxury end of tour celebration after a pretty rough camping trip. And rough they did look.
When I say 'Dutchmen' I mean 20 Hollandse jongers - old chaps from Amsterdam that have been friends since varisty and every decade or so mission off on some sort of African adventure. Last time they did Zim, and now it was South Africa's turn. As you can imagine Hollanders are not used to the heat, and they're also not impartial to some chilled white wine, which is why after their 2 night stay their bar bill reached a considerable 12 grand. Not so much in Euros I know but the picture Im trying to paint is that the atmosphere was rather jolly indeed.
Yesterday morning started off with a bang for me, as after their 5am wake up call (which takes me 10 mins to do as the furtherest room away is 600m roundtrip walk up a wooden boardwalk) all the dudes rushed out of their rooms in a way-to-over-zealous fashion only 2 mins after I knocked?! Normally guests kind of saunter down to the bar area 30 mins after wake up. This then lead to a coffee drinking frenzy as 20 hung over dutchmanne attempted to gulp down substantial amounts of caffeine before the morning activities. Poor planning on our behalf meant that only 1 barmen had been assigned to make 20 peoples coffees, so I was having to learn very quickly how to make double espressos el pronto. Once we had them loaded 14 of them on to the 2 vehicles (6 went for a bush walk) things went relatively smoothly........ until the afternoon drive.
Yesterday's afternoon game drive was ..... errr ....... manic, challenging and bloody hard work to say the least. It should have been easy, a leisurely routine game drive to Lanner Gorge for sundowners. We had Vikki, a friend from Eco-Training, helping us out as a 3rd guide on a freelance basis who was doing her first stint at The Outpost. Talk about being thrown in at the deep end. Trying to make things easier for her I suggested she use Land Rover no.1, which is definitely the best landy of the 3 we have. 4km down the road a get a call from Vikki on the radio saying that her landy is buggered, and that she heard a loud metallic snap and then lost 4 wheel drive and was now stuck at the bottom of a challenging little incline, in which we always go up in low range. EEEK.
So I rushed back to see if I could help. You may snigger here if you've ever seen me trying to do anything mechanical. Trues bob, I got there looked under the landy, tried to drive it up the slope once, failed miserably as the wheels just spun like crazy and only 2 had power. I then said 'Ya, it's stuffed.' and quickly radio'd the camp for some more capable help. In the meantime I suggested that Vikki take my landy with as many dutchies as she could fit, and get on over to the gorge in time to see the sun go down. She squeezed on 10, so I was left stranded with 4 okes and 1 buggered land rover over. What else to do but prematurely delve into the cooler box in an attempt to ease the stranded dutchies frustration. 4 ice cold zamaleks did the trick.Thank the Pope, Ralson & Abby (our 2 amazing bush mechanics) arrived with great haste and also declared that the landy was knackered. The problem was that they couldnt take it back the way they came due to an even nastier incline so they needed to get it up the slope in front to be able to take an easier road back to camp. Many would have thought it impossible but after 3 attempts, and after a mighty long 'run up' Abby bombed up and over the rocky incline with wheels spinning, rocks flying, exhaust bellowing black diesel fumes, and exitable dutchmanne shouting applause!
So, at last we were now free to continue on our way to the Gorge, only me and 4 dudes crammed into a Ford bakkie, with 6km to go, a treacherously rocky road to negotiate and min time remaining to get their before sunset. I know you cant call this real stress, but as far as the bush goes it was quite stressfull for me. The Ford, and the brand in general is an inferior offroad vehicle to a mighty landy that is for sure, but nevertheless I bombed it down a very rocky road and made it to the Gorge just in time to see the big orange Super C fall over the horizon. Ford has no clearance and I seriously feared that me scraping the bottom of the car all over the rocks would do nothing for my future career ambitions at The Outpost. Its a touchy subject - as the chef recently seized the engine on a trip to Louis Trichardt so everyone watches that bakkie with eagle eyes.
And so, yay, we made it, everyone was happy, the dutchies drank some more white wine and loved the view from the top. I thought my worries were over for the day, when someone hollered my name, 'Pieeeerrre, Koos has dropped his cell phone.' One plump chap had let his cell phone slip out of his hand and fall down into a crack between some large rocks into the depths of the mountain. He tried his best to get his round little figure down into and between the rocks but was about one meter short of the target, his anguish clearly visible. I definitely was not looking forward to it but I sheepishly proceeded to squeeze myself down down down into cracks too small for a starving ethiopian into the bloody mountain side. By some miracle of yoga, I managed to lower myself a full 2 meters or so down into the depths, feeling more than a little claustrophobic, and less than a little enthusiastic to experience death by mamba bite, whilst being stuck in a rock crack atop some remote mountain top 100 of miles from any medical attention. Luckily I came out unscathed and had a dutchman's cellphone clutched in my paw. The less than well known saying 'Good deeds like this do deserve good tips from dutchmanne' did lurk in the back of my mind.
Anyway the great thing about this place is that everything is temporary and passes fairly swiftly in the end, and now the dutchies have checked out and life returns to normal after a whirlwind of activity. I did have a nice sighting this morning of 3 rhino in the road. 1 huge bull, a cow and young calf. Considering that there are only 7 in 27,000 hectares, to see almost half the population is always pleasant and a lucky encounter. I've also being seeing some nice leopards quite near to camp, and as usual a shedload of buff and ellies. Lions are probably the toughest of the groot vyf animalia to locate as there is a resident pride of 12 at the moment that hang around in the thick riverine bush near the Luvuvhu bridge area which is not always the easiest place to spot them. I had a streak of African Wild Cats last week - 3 in 3 nights which was pretty cool. No aardvarks or pangolins yet, but there is sign of them being out there so its surely just a matter of time. My greatest nemesis is definitely the Pels Fishing Owl, which continues to allude me. I will have his number in the end though - that is for sure.
As our first stint draws to a close, Andria and I will return home next weekend. ie Sat 31 Oct and will be in Joburg until the 14th November or so. Will be so great to catch up with all friends and family. Oh ya, I will be off in the Klaserie from the 2-6 Nov, doing a walking trail for Transfrontiers which Brian has so kindly offered me. I cant wait to get some encounters so that I can start walking at The Outpost. Which is really where the true beauty lies in this pozzi, as it is best accessed on foot. 43 more is the number I need.
Take it easy...........
Love
P & A